A former working-class neighborhood, the 13th arrondissement is relatively out of the way and not particularly popular with tourists.
However, the modernization of the area in the 1990s contributed to its appeal! Driven by the construction of the National Library, it became an office and business district. Diderot University also moved there on the former site of the Grands Moulins, as did a portion of the Asian community.
Here are some tips to visit Paris 13th arrondissement with kids.
A family morning in the 13th arrondissement…
To start a family day in the 13th arrondissement off right, pick up some delicious croissants and pains au chocolat from baker-pastry chef Éric Kayser, whose expertise has helped him establish himself internationally over the past twenty years.
Located at 15 Avenue Pierre Mendès-France.
NB: If you’re lucky enough to be there on the weekend and have some time for brunch between 12 and 2 p.m., indulge in the ultra-gourmet menu at Secret Garden, with its stunning all-pink decor. Reservations required!
Located at 5 Rue Françoise Dolto.
Then, head downstairs for a stroll along the quays. You’ll see the four towers of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (the Tour des Temps, the Tour des Lois, the Tour des Nombres, and the Tour des Lettres), symbolizing four open books.
In 1988, President François Mitterrand announced the construction of the largest library in the world. It therefore has to collect funds from the Bibliothèque Nationale, bringing together all the works on legal deposit, some preserved since the Middle Ages. And for good reason: its 200,000 m² and 400 km of shelving house a total of more than 16,200,000 books.
The major works were finally completed in 1995 by Dominique Perrault. At its center is a garden inaccessible to the public, giving the building the appearance of a medieval cloister.
So enjoy the sunshine and the view of the Seine from its grand teak staircase. Or lose yourself in the labyrinth of its corridors before embarking on an in-house exhibition. Currently dedicated to the Apocalypse, for ages 14 and up.
On the Quai François Mauriac.
A late morning in the 13th arrondissement…
If you’d like a bit of freedom of movement, drop the kids off at the Manga Café. Operating as a third space, it serves as a bookstore open to the public, a restricted-access library (over 18,000 titles and cozy alcoves for privacy!), a games library (video game room and vintage arcade), and… a Japanese sweets store!
Note: Bento boxes, onigiri, soba, and more are also sold on-site for lunch.
Located at 9 rue Primo Levi.
Meanwhile, you could visit the Fab. of Agnès B, the great couturier and contemporary art lover. In this innovative space—complete with a bookstore specializing in cutting-edge art—she exhibits artists from her personal collections. Currently, in the gallery section (free access), François Prost’s photographs of the storefronts of Love Hotel Japonais; In the museum section (for a fee), street artist Futura 2000 is exhibited.
Located on Place Jean Michel Basquiat.
A family afternoon in the 13th arrondissement…
Then perhaps you’ll feel like having lunch in the Olympiades Chinatown? This community settled there with the migrations of the 1970s. Stock up on rare, typical ingredients at the Tang Frères supermarket and try some noodles in the many family-run stores.
At the Olympiades metro station (line 14).
Is it hot? So why not take a dip? Not far from there is the incredible Piscine Joséphine Baker. Located on a barge, its bay windows give you the illusion of swimming at the level of the Seine.
On the Quai François Mauriac.
If the weather isn’t good, visit La Manufacture des Gobelins instead. These tapestry workshops dating back to the 17th century were supported by Henry IV. Educational exhibitions highlighting the historical significance of this often underestimated art form are regularly held there, in addition to tours of the premises.
At 42 Avenue des Gobelins.
This concludes the afternoon. Walking back up towards Place d’Italie, you’ll come across the Jérôme Seydoux-Pathé Foundation for Cinema. It offers temporary exhibitions related to cinema (on peplums, and currently, movie posters) and its permanent collections of very old film equipment. Nicknamed the “Silent Film Library” by its aficionados, you might want to check out its unusual programming. They offer activities for young audiences.
At 17 Avenue des Gobelins.
A village evening in the 13th arrondissement…
Finally, to round off this family day in the 13th arrondissement, explore the Butte aux Cailles neighborhood, rich in street art! Enjoy a drink and then dinner in this small, picturesque village-style neighborhood in the heart of the 13th arrondissement. There, you’ll find many typically French restaurants, such as L’Auberge de la Butte, offering a warm atmosphere.
On Rue de la Butte-aux-Cailles.
Enjoy your visit!
For more ideas in Paris you can check A day out with friends in the Latin Quarter of Paris or a day out in the Marais !
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