The 12th arrondissement of Paris is not particularly touristic. Yet the area is mainly built around the magnificent Gare de Lyon, with its clock tower dating from 1900. Its new beating heart is located near Bercy, notably with the Palais Omnisport de Bercy. It attracts thousands of people every week for sporting events and concerts.
Here are some tips for to plan a successful day out with friends in the 12th arrondissement.
A pleasant morning with friends in the 12th arrondissement…
To start your journey with friends in the 12th arrondissement off right… Treat yourself to a famous brunch at Marvely in a cozy setting. The portions are generous and the dishes are delicious! Enjoy.
At 12 rue Crozatier.
If you’re in the mood for a bucolic stroll, take the Coulée Verte route. This former railway line was decommissioned in 1969. Now, this green path is a veritable oasis of greenery amidst the Parisian streets. It stretches from Bastille to the Bois de Vincennes. You can also visit the Château de Vincennes, a testament to medieval architecture.
Entrance at 1 Coulée Verte René-Dumont.
Then, visit the Cinémathèque Française, which preserves and restores international film heritage. Its virtuoso architecture is the work of American Frank Gehry (also the creator of the superb Louis Vuitton Foundation; see What to do in the 16th arrondissement of Paris).
The Cinémathèque programs daily classics as well as rarities of international cinema. It also offers family exhibitions (Tim Burton, The Vampire Slayer, Romy Schneider… and Wes Anderson, currently on display).
But it also houses the marvelous Méliès Museum. It is dedicated to the all-too-little-known figure of enchanter and cinematic pioneer Georges Méliès. Inventor of the first special effects and tricks, his cinematic art is akin to magic.
Open at 11 a.m. during school holidays and 12 or 1 p.m. during term time.
At 51 rue de Bercy.
Afterwards, you can take the time to stroll through the Bercy gardens. Climb the fountain to access the view of the Seine offered by the suspension bridge connecting the 12th to the 13th arrondissements (see article on the 13th arrondissement).
An afternoon in the 12th arrondissement…
Then have lunch at the gigantic and very surprising Ground Control. This complex, hidden from the rest of the city, is housed in a former postal sorting hall behind the Gare de Lyon. It feels a bit out of time. Its 6,500 m² (6,500 square feet) house restaurants of all nationalities. Its food court brings together India, Italy, Taiwan, Greece, and more. It also features various responsible businesses: an alternative bookstore, a thrift store, a record store, and more. All in an eco-friendly spirit, open to diverse sensibilities.
The venue, with its original design, is rich and very lively, with a constantly changing program. Concerts, readings, round tables, themed evenings, skateboarding or yoga workshops… But you can also play in its arcade or games bar area, or simply enjoy the outdoor deckchairs while sipping one of the many varieties of local beers on offer.
At 81 rue du Charolay.
Visit the extraordinary Musée des arts forains (Museum of Fairground Arts). Its owner has collected thousands of antique carousel sets, wooden horses, skittles, ice cream machines, and more. You can even try some of these magical attractions!
Note: For ages 5 and up. Accessible by reservation only. Guided tours are available on Wednesdays, weekends, public holidays, and every day during school holidays.
An evening with friends in the 12th arrondissement…
Finally, to end this day with friends in the 12th arrondissement on a high note… Why not dine in the former Bercy wine cellars, renamed Bercy Village?
In fact, before becoming home to shops, cinemas, and restaurants, these warehouses were used to store wines from the Bercy freight station. Many chains have set up shop there. From Italian dishes to Korean and Mexican street food, you’ll find something for everyone and enjoy the festive and warm atmosphere.
At the Cour Saint-Emilion station (line 14).
If you’re still brave enough, head to the former Cartoucherie de Vincennes. Where weapons and ammunition were once manufactured now stands the renowned Théâtre du Soleil. The talented director Ariane Mnouchkine founded this extraordinary venue, whose halls are made of wood. The program bears the mark of her political commitment.
Note: Access is a bit complicated. Take line 1 to the “Château de Vincennes” terminus, then find a free shuttle at the bus station that will take you to the buildings. You can also enjoy a meal on site in a very friendly setting.
Enjoy your visit!
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